Day 3: Ignoring the TLC Girls, by Chasing Waterfalls

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"Don't go chasing waterfalls, please stick to the rivers and the lakes that you're used to" warbled Tionne "T-Boz" Watkins, Lisa "Left Eye" Lopes and Rozonda "Chilli" Thomas, better known as TLC. Unfortunately, Mike and Bone had other ideas for the day! The Boys arose early in the ever-daylight to another lackluster breakfast, with the full expectations and plans of chasing at least two iconic waterfalls on Iceland’s western side.

Heading out of the Hotel in Vik, the Boys were again not blessed with good luck in the weather department. After a partly sunny day the day before, this morning greeting them with torrential rain showers and high winds. Alas, the price of being on an island so close to the top of the world! Refreshed with a couple simple coffees Mikey and Boney headed west on the Ring road towards Reykjavik, where after a couple of hours they came upon one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, Gullfoss!

Googling the Gullfoss Waterfalls !!

The Gullfoss waterfall ("Golden Falls) is located in the canyon of the Hvítá river in southwest Iceland just past Reykjavik, it was the one site on the Golden Circle the Boys missed due to the rainstorm. As they pulled into the parking the weather gave them a reprieve, it was still windy (as always on this island!) and mostly cloudy, but at least not pouring.

The wide Hvítá river flows southward, and about a mile above the falls it turns sharply to the right and flows down into a wide curved three-step "staircase" and then abruptly plunges in two stages (36 feet, then 69 feet) into a crevice 105 ft deep. The crevice, about 66 ft wide and 1.6 miles in length, extends perpendicular to the flow of the river, giving you the ability to walk right up to it and stare down the pounding water! Mike and Bone marveled at how clear the glacial melt water flowed and the incredible volumes rushing into this amazingly narrow crevice that really was less that 30 feet wide, but a half a mile long.

Mike and Bone, Contemplating a Swim!

Walking around the Boys learned that during the first half of the 20th century and some years into the late 20th century, there was much speculation about using Gullfoss to generate electricity. During this period, the waterfall was rented indirectly by its owners, Tómas Tómasson and Halldór Halldórsson, to foreign investors. However, the investors' attempts were unsuccessful, partly due to lack of money. The waterfall was later sold to the state of Iceland and is now protected as a National Park.

Maybe Not!

On ownership and protection of the Falls, Sigríður Tómasdóttir, the daughter of Tómas Tómasson, was determined to preserve the waterfall's condition and even threatened to throw herself down. Although it is widely believed, the very popular story that Sigríður saved the waterfall from exploitation is untrue. A stone memorial to Sigriður, located above the falls, depicts her profile.

The Upper Falls

GullFoss also has some international celebrity! Gullfoss appears on the cover of the album Porcupine by the British band Echo and the Bunnymen, it also briefly appeared in the TV series Vikings, in a side arc in Iceland.

The lake feeding the Gullfoss Waterfall

Gullfoss was one of the most crowded attractions Mike and Bone checked out in their time in Iceland. After staring at the icy cold water spraying everything in the area, they moved on to the barren, beautiful, volcanic high-lands as they cut across the country heading to the western-most end of the island, to,,,, yeah, chase more waterfalls!

The Volcanic High-Lands of Central Iceland!

For the next couple of hours Mike and Bone were driving on two lane roads with nobody, and we mean NOBODY! around for miles and miles. Which as good because around 2:00 PM the torrential rain started up again. Fortunately at the same time they came upon the very little town of Reykholt (population: 60!), where they stopped for gas and found a Bar. In other words, a good place to fuel both the car and the Boys!

The Bar was pretty empty (again, 60 people!), but the Bartender spoke perfect English and Mike and Bone, soaked and frozen from just filling up the car with Gas ordered 2 beers, 2 burgers, and 2 orders of fries, THEN the Boys understood why there was so few bars in Iceland!

"$50 Bucks! You gotta be kiddin' Me!"

Mike and Bone discovered that the dearth of bars and restaurants isn’t only because the small population, but also the fact that since most things need to be flown in, EVERYTHING is darned expensive. The trauma of the cost of the mid-day meal was such that it required fueling the ubiquitous “Hall of Shame” with some very tasty local brown ales to tide the Boys over for the rest of the afternoon drive.

Despite the rain which was now a constant drizzle, Mike and Bone cruised through an incredible black volcanic landscape only interrupted by gigantic green mountains and glacial landscapes, after three more hours (as the Hall of Shame was depleting!), the Boys came out of the high-lands and onto the Snæfellsnes peninsula!

"The Snow Fog of the Snaefellsjokull Glacier"

The Snæfellsnes peninsula is often referred to as “Iceland in Miniature” or “Iceland in a Nutshell”. This well-deserved nickname was given to the peninsula because of the diversity of its landscapes.

The target was Olafsvik, which is a town on the northern side of Snaefellsnes peninsula, close to the magnificent glacier that the Boys had been essentially driving around for the past hour, Snaefellsjokull! They figured that Olafsvik would be big enough for provisions (food, beer, and as place to crash!)

The gorge which channels runoff from the Glacier to the ocean is a part of the Snaefellsjokull National Park with several unbelievable attractions. First of which is ………………….

The sensational sights of the Snaefellsjokull National Park !!!!

A Church Mountain and Church Mountain Falls: Mount Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss

Mount Kirkjufell (literally Church Mountain) is one of Iceland's most photographed and iconic landmarks. This symmetrical mountain rises 700 feet above the shoreline, there are many beaches in the area and viewing areas right off the road.

The reason that Kirkjufell is probably the most photographed mountain in Iceland is its isolated position jutting out into the sea makes it a focal point for everyone who goes by.

Which leads to the second attraction, the Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall!

This beautiful 16-feet high fall flows in a couple of levels and is divided into three separate spouts. What separates this from all the other falls in Iceland is that as you stand before the fall you‘ll see the pyramid- shaped mount Kirkjufell towering above, one of the most scenic and beautiful in Iceland. This combination is photogenic to say the least, offering the Boys a stunning view and some great pictures of the Bay.

An Awesome Atlantic Ocean View

Some Postcard Views!!

Tales from the Falls !!!!

"Somewhere, over the Rainbow",,,,, is, Olafvik!

While enjoying the sights of the Waterfall and the Mountain, Mike and Bone could see Olafsvik in the distance where another waterfall (Iceland has as many waterfalls as Carter’s has Liver Pills!) cast a permanent rainbow on the Town, where the Boys were hoping for a pot of gold, or at least beer, food, and sleep. Around 9:00 PM the Boys headed into the City to find all three!

"Only 1 Outta 3?!

Soon as they drove into town it was like a ghost town, especially on a Saturday night! Nothing seemed open, they asked a bunch of kids where to buy beer, and they said at only at the Grocery Store and it was already closed at 8:00 PM! Fortunately, they were able to get a second floor Hotel room overlooking the Ocean. Talking to the proprietor, there was only two restaurants in town, and one was already closed and the other closed at 10:00, it was 9:45!!!

Boogieing with all their might the 10 minutes across town they happened upon a very cool old house right on the Atlantic that had the best food since they landed in Iceland! The Restaurant Also, they had some VERY good beers!! The staff could not sell the Boys any beers for the Room, but they let them stay and order several rounds well past closing at 11:00 PM with the eerie mid-day sunlight streaming into the windows giving the appearance of 3:00 in the afternoon!

Despite the long day of driving, and the great meal, the Sun came out for the first time and gave the entire landscape an amazing golden glow, so they decided despite it being midnight to drive around a bit and ended up back at Kirkjufellfoss waterfall to experience it with no one around, just nature!!!

Kirkjufellsfoss, at Midnight!?!?

So despite the long day of driving, and the great meal, since Mr. Sun came out for a a visit which gave the entire landscape an amazing golden glow, Mike and Bone ignored the fact that is was pushing midnight anddrive around a bit.

Even better Kirkjufellsfoss Postcard Pictures!!

Mike and Bone at Kirkjufellsfoss at Midnight!!

The drive ended up back at Kirkjufellfoss waterfall to experience it one more time on this day.When Mike and Bone were at the waterfall earlier, there had been a bit of a crowd, but now as it approached midnight it was a deserted and magical place!

The Boys were able to simply stand in silence, listening to only the wind and the rushing water from the Falls. It ended up being a truly amazing nightcap, despite it still being broad day light at midnight!

Eventually around 1:00 AM, with it still full day light, the Boys put in for the night with the sound of the ocean lapping the coast outside their window!