Day 2: Musing Mongolian Kulture!
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Mike and Bone rose to a welcome surprise, the Novatel Breakfast buffet was pretty good! After a hearty breakfast the Boy met Sinhee and Baatar milk all they could on Mongolian culture. Since Mongolian is a milk culture with milk-beer and milk-vodka (no kidding here!), it was an appropriate way to start a day filled with religion, museums and music !?! Yep, enough culture to curdle your milk into yogurt !! First stop, per REM, found Mike and Bone not losing their religion,,,,, well maybe, maybe not! Tibetan Buddhism that is!
Mike and Bone ,,,, Budha Boys!?!?!
Despite the many years of communism, Mongolia is still a very religious society that follows Tibetan Buddhism. In fact, Buddhism is the largest religion practiced in Mongolia today. The country is home to an estimated 200 temples and a monastic sangha of around 500 Mongolian monks and nuns.
Mongolia practices Gelug or “Yellow hat” Buddhism and the architecture is the same as a Tibetan-style Buddhist monastery. Erdene Zuu Monastery, Mongolia’s oldest monastery, is built in this style, using the traditional colors of Tibetan Buddhism and architecture, yellow, green, red, white, and blue.
Mongolia’s history with Buddhism dates back to the 13th century and Kublai Khan. At that time, he was the leader of the Yuan dynasty. While he had always been fascinated by Buddhist philosophy, he didn’t officially convert to Buddhism until 1271 in a move to win Chinese allegiance. The plan worked and he was able to expand the Mongol Empire with the help of the Chinese to reach from the Pacific Ocean to the Black Sea, and from Siberia to what is now Afghanistan.
Almost 100 years later, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire in 1368, Mongols rejected their Buddhist beliefs and returned to shamanism.
Buddhism once again reemerged in the 16th and 17th centuries when Altan Khan, a Mongol military leader, invited the 3rd Dalai Lama to Mongolia, reigniting interest in the practice.
By the beginning of the 20th century, Mongolia was home to 583 monasteries and temple complexes and an estimated 112,000 monks.
Additionally, Ulaanbaatar was the seat of the preeminent living Buddha of Mongolia, the 8th Jebtsundamba Khutuktu. Also known as the Bogdo Gegen and later as the Bogd Khan, he was the top-ranking Lama in Mongolia.
Things once again took a turn for the worse when Mongolia joined the USSR in 1924 and Khorloogiin Choibalsan later became the leader of the Mongolian People’s Republic. A close ally of Joseph Stalin, Choibalsan was a nasty dictator who organized Stalinist purges in Mongolia between 1937 and 1939. During the Stalinist repressions almost all of the country’s temples, statues, artifacts, and cultural heritage was destroyed. It’s also estimated 18,000 monks and lamas were killed.
In the early 1990s, following the democratic revolution and the return of the country’s independence, Buddhism once again became the most practiced religion in Mongolia.
So, the first stop of the morning was the Dashchoilin Monastery, which is one of Ulaanbaator's most revered monastic complexes. The complex draws Buddhist lamas and visitors from around the world with its cultural and spiritual significance.
Dallying in the Dashchoilin Monastery
Dashchoilin Monastery is one of the city’s most revered monastic complexes. The complex draws Buddhist lamas and visitors from around the world with its cultural and spiritual significance.
Home to a sizable community of monks, the complex boasts a unique blend of traditional Mongolian and Tibetan architectural styles. The three yurt complexes are adorned with vibrant murals, intricate woodwork, and ornate sculptures inside.
Dashchoilin Khiid is renowned for its commitment to preserving and promoting Buddhist teachings, as well as serving as a center for meditation and religious ceremonies. Its tranquil surroundings and the palpable sense of devotion contribute to its reputation as one of the best monasteries to visit in Ulaanbaatar, offering a captivating glimpse into Mongolia’s spiritual heritage. Sinhee brought Mike and Bone into the Monastery where the Boys saw the monks reading ancient Tibetan Buddhist scrolls and chanting out what they were reading. A room full of chanting monks definitively made it an eerie scene! After a few respectful minutes. Sinhee took the Boys to the Gandan Monastery.
The "Great Place of Complete Joy!", the Gandan Monastery
Walking into the Gandan Monastery, Sinhee told the Boys it is considered the “Great Place of Complete Joy.” Mike and Bone pondered if it as world’s largest indoor statue of Avalokiteśvar that provided that joy?! It was founded in 1809, closed amid persecutions in 1939, and from 1944 to 1989 was the country's only active monastery. Today, it is the center of Buddhism in Mongolia. The monastery has more than 100 resident monks and numerous Buddhist treasures, including a 85 foot statue of Avalokiteśvara made of gilded bronze and precious stones.
The 85 Foot Statue of Avalokiteśvara
Um Avalokiteśvara who?!? In Buddhism, Avalokiteśvara meaning "the lord who looks down", is a tenth-level bodhisattva ( a bodhisatva is a person who is on the path towards bodhi ['awakening' ] or Buddhahood) associated with great compassion. He is often associated with Amitabha Buddha. Avalokiteśvara has numerous manifestations and is depicted in various forms and styles. In some texts, he is even considered to be the source of all Hindu deities (such as Vishnu, Shiva, Saraswati, Brahma, etc).
Similar to Christianity, which is an offshoot of Judaism, Buddhism has its roots in Indian Hinduism.
Avalokiteśvara is also known for his popular mantra, “oṃ maṇi padme hūṃ”, which is the most popular mantra in Tibetan Buddhism in Mongolia. With all this talk of Tibetan Buddhism, the "pope" of Tibetan Buddhism had his picture in the Monastery!
The Grand Master Himself, The 14th Dalia Lama
"Dalai Lama" was a title given by Altan Khan, the first Shunyi King of Ming China, in 1578 AD at Yanghua Monastery to the foremost spiritual leader of the Gelug or "Yellow Hat" school of Tibetan Buddhism, the newest and most dominant of the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism. The 14th and incumbent Dalai Lama is Tenzin Gyatso, who lives in exile as a refugee in India. The Dalai Lama is considered to be the successor in a line of tulkus who are believed to be incarnations of Avalokiteśvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, the “brand” of Buddhism Mongolia follows.
Similar to the Catholic Pope, the Dalia Lama has been around for centuries. In fact, since the time of the 5th Dalai Lama in the 17th century, the Dalai Lama has been a symbol of unification of the state of Tibet. The Dalai Lama was an important figure of the Geluk tradition, which was dominant in Central Tibet, but his religious authority went beyond sectarian boundaries, representing Buddhist values and traditions above any specific school.
The current Dalai Lama has been a western hero for Tibetan nationhood for Tibetans both in Tibet and in exile where he lives in India. Next, Sinhee told the Boys about the four heavenly protectors of Buddhism who guard against evil forces from the four directions. They include: Jikokuten (east), Zōchōten (south), Kōmokuten (west) Tamonten (north).
Coo Coo for Kōmokuten !! ? !!
The designation of 'Protector Deity' is common within the Tibetan Buddhism. The term is one designation in a rather fluid yet elaborate set of religious hierarchies in the various versions of Buddhist deities.
They denote different “manifestations” of god (no different from the Christian trinity) that protect people from different types of evil from the directions for example: Jikokuten (east), Zōchōten (south), Kōmokuten (west), Tamonten (north). Statues of them tend to show them with scary angry faces like Kōmokuten above are meant to show them overcoming an evil being.
The Main Buddhist Temple in Ulaanbaator in Gandan
The Boys next saw a picture of the next Dalia Lama !?
Oh Boy! The Next Dalia Lama!?!
Well, actually the next spiritual leader for Buddhism in Mongolia!! The kid on the picture above is the Dalia Lama’s pick for the next spiritual leader for Mongolia!
The current Dalia Lama created quite the kerfuffle in March 2023 where more than 5,600 people had gathered for a ceremony in Dharamsala, India, when the Dalai Lama indicated toward a young child beside him from Mongolia.
According to the Dalai Lama, the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism, identified the boy as the latest reincarnation of the Khalkha Jetsun Dhampa Rinpoché, the Tibetan Buddhist faith’s leader in Mongolia. The previous Khalkha Jetsun Dhampa, the ninth to hold the title, died in 2012.
After more religious background than the Boys received as teenagers! They left the sanctity of the sanctuaries to muse in two Mongol Museums!
The Chinggis Khaan National Museum
Sinhee next took Mile and Bone to the Chinggis Khaan National Museum, which was established in 2019 by the decision of the Prime Minister U.Khurelsukh.
The museum has more than 10,000 original exhibits ranging from exhibits of Modun Shanyu, the founder of the first nomadic state to the artifacts the activities of the kings and nobles of the Mongolian states, from Modun Shanyu, the founder of the Hun Empire, the first nomadic state, to the beginning of the 20th century. Sinhee started the Boys with the dreaded Black Banner!!
The Dreaded Black Banner!!
A banner or locally known as a "tug" is a pole with circularly arranged horse or yak tail hairs of varying colors arranged at the top. It was historically flown by Turkic tribes such as Tuğluğ Confederation (hence its name), and then during the period of the Chinggis Khan’s To this day, it is still used by some units of the Polish military!
During the 13th Century, Chinggis Khan’s black banner would make many nations knees a-quiver since a white-haired banner is used as a peacetime symbol, the black banner was for wartime. Black meant heads would be rolling soon, literally! The use of the horse tail is symbolic since horses were central to the Mongols' livelihood.
The Mongols continued to honor the banner, and Zanabazar (1635–1723) built a monastery with the special mission of flying and protecting the black banner in the 17th century.
Around 1937, the black banner disappeared amidst the great purges of the nationalists, monks and intellectuals, and the destruction of monasteries by the lovely Soviet Communist, again, to gotta love Stalin! Now that the commies are gone, the Mongols are again celebrating their past!
13th Century Mongol Warrior Armor!
Wandering around the museum the ancient garb in the museum reflects what Chinggis Khan's Mongol Army wore in the 13th and 14th century, like most other aspects of their culture, it reflected their nomadic lifestyle in the often harsh climate of the Asian steppe.
Typical items included felt hats, long jackets with loose sleeves, and practical baggy trousers. As the Mongol army was based on fast-moving, lightly armed cavalry, Mongol warriors usually had a relaxed 'come-as-you-are' approach to uniforms so that clothes in both war and peace were often very similar. Heavy cavalry units did wear armor made from padded materials, hardened leather and pieces of metal. Many of the Mongol clothes of the medieval period are still worn by nomadic peoples today across Eurasia !
"Those Mongol certainly had their Stones!!!"
Mongol Deer stone monuments dated from approximately 1200 to 600 BCE. They are almost always located within complexes that include khirgisüürs (elaborated burial mounds), sacrificial altars, human burials and remains of horses, and other elements. By now, it was getting close to lunch, so Sinhee took the Boys for an ancient lunch at a modern Restaurant!
Old Nomads in Modern Nomads
Sinhee took Mike and Bone to a “local chain” called Modern Nomads. The first Modern Nomads restaurant opened its doors in 2003 and has since expanded to Nomads Chain of Restaurants. Interestingly enough Modern Nomads had a “Detroit” Connection!
In 2005 “BD’s Mongolian Barbeque”, the first Mongolian franchisee opened in Detroit! One of Bones favorites (now sadly gone.)
However, BD’s Mongolian Barbeque was not really Mongolian food! Mike and Bone expected lovely grilled steak and veggies, what they got was traditional Mongolian cuisine,,, boiled mutton and onions!
After a plentiful and belchful lunch, Sinhee took Mike and Bone to the National History Museum to check out the silver??
"The Silver Tree of Karakorum"
One of the cool things the Boys were shown was the silver tree of Karakorum. A European traveler by the name of William of Rubruck's gave an account of his travels in the 13th-century Mongolian Capital of Karakorum is the remarkably ornate solid silver fountain — complete with silver fruit and an angelic automaton — flowed with various alcoholic drinks for the grandson of Chingghis Khan and guests. The Boys disappointedly tried to see if alcohol still flowed from the recreated tree, but sadly, it was just water.
How the Morning Dragon On!
Walking around the Museum, Mike and Bone marveled at the exquisite statues and portraits that the Mongolians crafted in their heyday. It was interesting to learn that Mongolian history did not begin with Chinggis, in fact Mongols were forming empires 1,000 years before Temüjin! One of the most impactful was Modu Chanyu.
Murderin' Modu!
One of the first countries that Chinggis conquered was Xiongnu to the east of Mongolia. It turns out that Xiongu was in fact a Mongolian country! One of the exhibits in the Museum was to the feared ancient leader Modu Chanyu.
Modu Chanyu (c. 234 – c. 174 BC) was the founder of the empire of the Xiongnu. He was not a nice guy, in fact he was pretty brutal. Modu came to power by ordering his men to kill his own father in 209 BC.
Modu ruled afterwards from 209 BC to 174 BC. He was a military leader under his father Touman and later Chanyu of the Xiongnu Empire, based on the Mongolian Plateau. He secured the throne and established the powerful Xiongnu Empire by successfully unifying the tribes of the Mongolian-Manchurian grasslands into a powerful local force. This empire stayed in power all the way till Chinggis time in the 13th century when he razed their capital Xanadu or modern data Beijing. After checking out yet another mass murdering mongol. Sinhee took the Boys to an amazing Mongolian folk art performance.
The Tumen Ekh Ensemble
Part of the tour involved a performance of native Mongolian Folk singing and dancing. Sihnee took Mike and Bone to see the Tumen Ekh Ensemble, founded in 1989, is one of the best national song and dance ensembles in Mongolia. Famous for the quality of its show that combines professionalism and respect of Mongolian traditional culture, it has gone on to win awards across the world.
A Throaty Performance !!
One of the cool performances was their VERY funky throat singing! Mongolian throat singing is a form of singing comprising several techniques that is practiced in Mongolia. It involves techniques that comprise subharmonics and sounds like a frog on acid! or better still what a frog sounds like to someone on Acid!
A Dance in the Dark!!
It was just an hour-long program but was packed with a variety of amazing performances. From the famed throat singing to a mesmerizing contortionist who performed some of the most complicated feats. The traditional Mongolian musicians perform intricate pieces with their native instruments such as the horsebox, that sounded just like a violin!
Afterwards Mike and Bone went back to the Hotel to grab a quick dinner and hit the hay! It had been a long day and the next day the Boys were ready to strike out into the broader Mongolian world!