Day 2: Diocletian's Kool Pad!

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Mike and Bone awoke feeling the effects of not sleeping for 32 straight hours. They rose around 8:30 to a beautiful, sunny day!

A Beautiful View of the Adriatic Beach from their AirBnB

The opened the window and immediately smelled the salt air of the awesome Adriatic. Invigorated the Boys wanted to start the checking out the house of the "dude" (or Emperor) that "split" the Roman Empire in Split. So for the remainder of today's narrative, the word "Split" will be used multiple times, for multiple puns. Around 9:00 AM the Boys split from their place to drop off the rental car, then they were going to walk downtown to break their fast.

An Amazing View Diocletian's Palace from the Split Waterfront!

Dropping the Car off downtown gave the Boys a leisurely 15 minute walk back to the Split Waterfront. Back in the day, for the Roman bureaucrats that had to split from the Eternal City of Rome to be part of the palace of Diocletian, the mountains, terrain and flora and fauna was very, very similar.

The Boys breaking their Fast in front of the Palace and Harbor!

Walking along the Waterfront, the Boys saw the enormity of Diocletian's Palace, it went on for multiple blocks! On the Waterfront Mike and Bone stopped at charming little outdoor restaurant with an awesome view of the harbor and the Palace! A very pleasant waiter brought the Boys an awesome breakfast and a couple of cappuccino's that restored and recharged the Boys batteries in order to check out Diocletian's Palace!

Reconstruction of Diocletian's Palace

(In its original appearance upon completion in AD 305)

Walking into the Mike & Bone Diocletian's Palace, which was yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site for the Boys! Mike and Bone were looking for a Museum, but were sadly disappointed. But typical Mike & Bone luck reared its head!

Checking out Old Town in Diocletian's Palace!

In the Main Square is a small tourist station, walking in Mike and Bone asked a largely disinterested young lady if there was a Museum or tours in the area. With the classic eye roll and huff she said no, letting the Boys know that she was really too busy to do her job. by SHEER happen stance, the moment they walked out the door disgusted, a very nice lady walked up and asked the Boys if they would like a tour!!!!

So Mike and Bone signed up immediately for a tour that was going to start at 12:30 PM. In the meantime, they were going have the privilege to have an audience with the "Emperor"!

All HAIL Diocletian!?!?! In 2023!?!

Apparently every day at 12:00 noon, during Tourist Season, locals dress as Roman Centurions and Diocletian and his "Wife," come out to greet the plebeians and unwashed masses (including a sweaty Mike and Bone!) to fanfare and canned music! After the "royal little drama," the Boys split for their tour!

The Agonies of Antoinella!

The worst thing for a new tour guide is to deal with Bone and his endless questions. So unfortunately for a lovely young unemployed teacher-turned-tour guide Antoinella her second ever tour had to deal with Mike and Bone! Hence the Agonies of Antoinella! Despite the continual heckling from Bone, she gave a fairly good background on the history of the Palace which is an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the end of the third century AD, and today forms about half of the old town of Split.

While it is referred to as a "palace" because of its intended use as the retirement residence of Diocletian, the term can be misleading as the structure is massive and more resembles a large fortress: about half of it was for Diocletian's personal use, and the rest housed a military garrison, a bakery, and even manufacturing capabilities. In essence, it was as much of a self-sufficient city as Rome or Hadrian’s Villa! The story is that Diocletian had ordered the construction of the heavily fortified compound near his hometown of Spalatum in preparation for his retirement on 1 May 305 AD. The site chosen was near Salona, the provincial administrative center of Dalmatia (modern Croatia), on the southern side of a short peninsula. The ground plan of the palace is an irregular rectangle, with sixteen towers projecting from the western, northern, and eastern facades on the facades facing the mainland. There are four towers on the corners of the square, giving the palace a characteristic of the roman legionary forts similar to those on the Danube.

Two of the six octagonal ground-floor towers were framed by three landing entrances, the six rectangular ground floors of the rectangular floor being between the corner and the octagonal. To date, three corner towers (except the southwestern) have been preserved, and only the remains of octagonal and rectangular ones. Three well-preserved landings have been architecturally fragmented, especially the northern one, which was the main approach from Salona. The south, seaside gate, is small, simple and well-preserved. The facade walls of the palace in their lower parts are massive and simple without openings, and in the upper part, there are large arches that face the land, e.g. on the west, north and east facades. subterranean portions of the palace feature barrel vaulted stonework. This included four very distinctive gates to control traffic and attack. After laying out the Palace, Antoinella gave small tour group a brief overview of the Palace Vestibule.

The Palace Vestibule

The Vestibule is a classic Roman rotunda, that was originally the first section of the imperial corridor in the Palace that led via the Peristyle to the Diocletian's Imperial apartments in the complex. Antoinella shared that the beginning of construction of Diocletian's Palace isn't really known. It is assumed to have begun around 295, after Diocletian’s introduction of the Tetrarchy (the rule of four) that split the Empire into four, each with their own "Caesars", that reported to the Emperor.

Mike, checking out Diocletian's Palace from the Main Square!

However according to Antoinella, ten years after that decision, when Diocletian abdicated in 305, the palace seems to have still been unfinished, and there are indications that some works were taking place while the emperor was residing at the Palace. It is unknown under whose architectural ideas the palace was built and who its builders were. The complex was modeled on Roman forts of the 3rd-century era, examples of which can be seen across the limes, such as the bridgehead fort of Castrum Divitia across the Rhine from Cologne. However, the engraved Greek names Zotikos and Filotas, as well as many Greek characters, indicate that a number of builders were originally from the eastern part of the empire, e.g. Diocletian brought with him masters from the East. Still, a large part of the workforce was likely of local origin. The basic materials came from close proximity. The white limestone comes from Brač and some of Seget near Trogir; tufa was extracted from nearby riverbeds, and bricks were made in Split and other workshops located nearby.

Viewing the Western Wall and the Iron Gate

The Western Gate, or “Iron Gate” was originally a military gate from which troops entered the complex, the gate is the only one to have remained in continuous use to the present day.

During late antiquity, the gate was known as the “Porta Occidentalis”. During the persecutions under Theodosius I, a relief sculpture of Nike, the Roman goddess of victory (which stood on the lintel) was removed from the gate, later in the 5th century, Christians engraved a Cross in its place.

The Irony of the Medieval Cathedral of Saint Domnius

One of the most visible parts of the Palace was not original equipment and more importantly not represents a very different thing than purpose intended! Originally built as a temple for Jupiter (the main Roman God), then as Diocletian's Mausoleum, this pagan building was converted first to a Orthodox Christian Church, then when the Venetians ruled the area, a Catholic Church. It was during the that that the tower was built by Bonino da Milano in 1427 in the late Gothic style, while the decoration of frescoes of four evangelists was down to the late Gothic painter Dujam Vušković from Split in 1429. The irony of course is that Diocletian hated Christianity being a devout advocate of Jupiter (hence his temple!), in fact he tried an failed to stomp Christianity out. This called "Diocletian’s Persecution", which was the last and most severe persecution of Christians in the Roman Empire. It was initiated in 303, who issued a series of edicts rescinding Christians' legal rights and demanding that they comply with traditional religious practices. This was the longest and most destructive persecution the pagan Roman State waged against the Orthodox Church. How ironic, he is now buried in a Catholic Church!

The Oldest Statue in Diocletian's Palace

As Antoinella guided (more like herded!) the small group through the site she pointed out what was there with Diocletian, and what was added later. The Sphinx above, which was originally from Luxor Egypt, taken to Rome, then taken by Diocletian after his visit to Rome to build Diocletian's Baths, that he brought it to his Palace in Split.

View of the Imperial Apartments

Walking past the part of the Palace that Diocletian and his Wife lived, Antoinella shared that after his retirement, Diocletian lived on for four more years, spending his days in his palace gardens. He saw his tetrarchic system fail due Constantine the Great defeating the other emperors in battle and re-consolidating everything into one leader. In his palace, statues and portraits of his former companion emperor were torn down and destroyed. Deep in despair and illness, Diocletian may have committed suicide. He died on 3 December 312...... Mike Birthday!! Is Mike the reincarnation of one of the smartest and impactful Roman Emperors!!!??!?!

Since he hangs with Bone, probably not!

With the death of Diocletian, the life of the palace did not end in was very much a functioning city, and it remained an imperial possession of the Roman court, providing shelter to the expelled members of the Emperor's family. An interesting fact that was shared was in 480, Emperor Julius Nepos was murdered by one of his own soldiers, reportedly stabbed to death in his villa near Salona Since Diocletian's palace was in the area, it might have been the same building.

Diocletian's Place in the Palace to Chow!: The Imperial Banquet Hall

Antoinella took the Boys through the Imperial Banquet Hall and talked about the daily massive spread the Emperor would have laid out every day, all day for his family and guest. It was a sign of opulence that signified, he was the Emperor! Having such an ongoing banquet was a helluva undertaking, requiring a massive staff to prepare and manage the continual feast. It also required a huge place to store all this food! Hence the Cellars of Diocletian!

The Cellars of Diocletian

Next, Antoinella took the Tour down to the Cellars of Diocletian's Palace, one of the most untouched parts of the Palace is the Cellars. The Cellars are a set of substructures, located at the southern end of Diocletian's Palace right underneath the Imperial apartments of the Emperor and represent one of the best preserved ancient complexes of their kind in the world.

During the later Roman empire, the function of the cellars was partly to elevate the Emperor's chambers on the floor above, but they were also the storage area for massive food and wine needed for the Palace. Actually, a remnant of a large press, which was used in the wine production is still visible, and on display today.

In the Early Middle Ages, as refugees made their homes behind the safety of the palace walls, a part of the underground complex was used as a residential area. In time, the cellars were almost forgotten, being filled in with waste material from the upper floors. However awareness of them (in Split at least) seems to have lasted, the old Split name for the substructures is "Grote" and seems the locals came to view them as a place to fear and respect, as popular belief had it they had been the dungeons where the Emperor Diocletian tortured Christians during his Persecutions.

In the 19th century, work began, to excavate, drain and clear the collapsed sections of the Cellars, by architect and conservationist Vicko Andrić, the first Split and Croatian conservationist. The work continued through 1950s when the basement's western halls were open to the public in 1959, while those of the eastern part, with the completion of extensive restoration and conservation, works only completed and opened to the public in 1996. Today the cellars are accessible through the Bronze Gate, or through a staircase from the Peristyle. The Western part of the basement has been preserved in its entirety and is almost completely accessible for sightseeing, used as an attractive fair and exhibition space. The Eastern part has collapsed, most likely during Middle Age, however, it has since been excavated and a large part is also accessible. As they walked through out of the Cellars they walked into the bright light of

The Southern Wall and Gate

Diocletian’s Palace second life came when Salona was largely destroyed in the invasions of the Avars and Slavs in the 7th century, though the exact year of the destruction still remains an open debate between archaeologists. Part of the expelled population, now refugees, found shelter inside the palace's strong walls and with them a new, organized city life began. Since then, the palace has been continuously occupied, with residents making their homes and businesses within the palace basement and directly in its walls. St Martin's Church is an example of this trend.

Today many restaurants and shops, and some homes can still be found within the walls. In the period of the free medieval commune, between the 12th and 14th centuries, there was a greater architectural development when many medieval houses filled not only Roman buildings but also a large part of the free space of streets and docks. Also completed in this period was the construction of the Romanesque bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, which inhabits the building that was originally erected as Jupiter's temple and then used as the Mausoleum of Diocletian. After the Middle Ages, the palace was virtually unknown in the rest of Europe until the Scottish architect Robert Adam had the ruins surveyed. Then, with the aid of French artist and antiquary Charles-Louis Clérisseau and several draughtsmen, Adam published Ruins of the Palace of Emperor Diocletian at Split in Dalmatia. This "rediscovered" this amazing place to the world's attention in the modern age.

A Diorama of Diocletian's Palace

A Very Different Golden (Northern) Gate

Antoinella then took them outside to view the Northern Gate or "Golden Gate", which served as the main gate through which the Emperor entered the complex and was elaborately decorated to mark its status. Over the course of the Middle Ages, the gate was sealed off and lost its columns and statuary. It was reopened and repaired in modern times and now serves as a tourist attraction.

The gate stood at a terminal point of the road which led north towards Salona, Diocletian's birthplace and the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia. It was probably used by Diocletian to enter the palace after his abdication from the imperial throne on 1 May 305. The Romans of late antiquity called the structure Porta Septemtrionalis ("Northern Gate"). In the Middle Ages, its name was changed to Porta Romae ("Roman Gate",) The name "Golden Gate" seems to date from the Renaissance, making its first appearance in the 1553 itinerary of the Venetian trade unions. Antoinella then changed the speech (pun intended) to the Croatian Language!

Having a (Croatian) Word with Gregory of Nin

Antoinella, being a proud Croatian, she had to talk about the 28 foot statue of Gregory of Nin, the local Croatian Catholic prelate who served as a medieval Bishop of Nin and strongly opposed the pope and official circles of the Catholic Church, particularly about having to use Latin. He introduced the Croatian language in the religious services after the Great Assembly in 926, according to traditional Croatian historiography. Until that time, services were held only in Latin (being under the jurisdiction of Roman influence before the Great Schism), which was not understandable to a majority of the population. Being outside the Palace also signified the end of the Tour.

Antoinella, despite Bone's badgering, was gracious and bid her adieu, leaving Mike and Bone on their own around 2:00 PM. While in Michigan, the leaves were turning colors and the temps were in the 60''s. In Split, it felt like July! It was hot, sunny, and in the low 90's!

So what to do next???????????????

How 'bout a Cocktail!!!?!!!

What to do on Warm Summer Afternoon ahead!?!

(Drink Heavily!)

The Boys passed many (many!) cool little outdoor bistros inside the Palace, a good place to quench their thirst and enjoy an appetizer! Finding a place in the middle of the square, Mike got him self a beer, and Bone quaffed one of his favorite little toddies, he enjoyed from his time in Paris, a Lemon Schweppes and Vodka. Also ordering a very lite caprezi salad with argula and prosciutto, provided the Boys a little lunch to munch with the cocktails.

Well, one round was so good that it led into two, then three, then by five (in evening!!) Mike and Bone had lost count!!!

One Good Drink deserves another!!

In their zeal to continue to enjoy the city and the cocktail, our thirsty heroes continued their program to deplete Split (and most of Western Croatia) of their Vodka and Beer! and simply moved to a new bistro this time right outside of the Palace facing the beach. In the late afternoon sun and heat, the rounds of drinks increased in frequency! Obviously is was due to the heat! (right?!)

More Dining and Drinking, On the Beach!!

Finally around 7:00 as the sun began to set, Mike and Bone decided to stagger down the beach area for a proper meal, but ensuring it included more drink!!

Sunset on the Adriatic

Finally around 7:00 as the sun began to set, Mike and Bone decided to stagger down the beach area for a proper meal, but ensuring it included more drink!! Other than splitting a salad, the Boys had been on a liquid diet all afternoon. Find a very cool outdoor restaurant right next to the beach proved the perfect place to drunkenly reflect on the day!

Swooning and Micturating on the Adriatic

Finally around 7:00 as the sun began to set, Mike and Bone decided to stagger down the beach area for a proper meal, but ensuring it included more drink!! Other than splitting a salad, the Boys had been on a liquid diet all afternoon. Belting down a couple of c+ steaks only helped balance the Boys only a little. This did not help that they continued their strict regiment of fresh drinks every 15 minutes!

Around 9:00 (ish?!?) The Boys were finally sated and saturated with food and much drink. As the staggered back to their AirBnB, with Mike christening the Adriatic. The Boys passed out around 10:30 PM with the sorry task ahead of them needing to get up early to take the 8:00 AM train to Budapest!